2014 – 07 – 28: Day 6 - Road Trip Across the USA - Exploring Lake Michigan Lighthouses

Well today started with an adventure!

I get to the car and the locks don’t open.  I run through the mental check list…battery operated key…battery dead…did I unplug the cooler?   Right!  In the rain and the extra commotion last night after checking in I forgot!  Dead battery alright!   

I went to the front desk and asked for the nearest people to supply this kind of roadside assistance and she dialed the number and gave me the phone.  I gave the fellow my information and he said he would be there in 15 minutes. 

So there I stand beside the car, chilled because my other dry sweater is in the car, waiting.  I did not have long to wait, he was there within 10 minutes.   First he asked me to unlock the car, I showed him the electric power key and said I did not know how to open the car door.  He showed me how to use the ignition key to open the lock!  DUH!!!!   I felt so foolish.  Kindly man chuckled with me and gave me a hug of sympathy.  

Well he knew his job well, in no time he had the hood up and the cables connected and “VROOMM” we were in business.  We stopped and chatted for a while and I found out that his wife had left him over another man, that he had a stroke and then just as he was getting over that, he had a heart attack and needed a triple bypass…and yet here he is chipper and friendly and helpful!   Thinking back I should have asked his name, but so Unnamed Gentleman who helped me on my way with a boost, thank you for you kind and friendly service. 

Once on the road I found that I was very close to Orchard Beach State Park where I would have stayed if the weather were fine.   There was a lovely view to Lake Michigan there, and then I drove on to find the lighthouse.

It took a couple of tries to find the right road but eventually I spotted the tiny sign for “Monroe Rd”.   You almost needed a telescope to see it!   At the end of the road is the Coast Guard and the Lighthouse and a huge stretch of sandy beaches. 

Mantisee Lighthouse

The temperatures are chilly and the wind is whipping up a storm and the beaches are deserted!   The waves crashing on the break wall must be huge for they were throwing spray up 10 or more feet into the air.   I hope that some of my pictures capture the spray!

Next I drove into the historic town of Mantisee.  This town deserves a visit just for the historic buildings!   I drove down main street in amazement at the architecture.  I think I could spend a couple of hours just enjoying that, but today my adventure was the River Trail which was easy enough to find.  

It is a delightful boardwalk in parts right over the waters of the river.  

Fishing hut

There were some beautiful views of the river and to the lighthouse on the other side of the mouth of the river.  There was an oldfishig hut (I believe), along the trail.  I found it very picturesque. 

My final stop for the area was at Douglas Park, another lovely sandy beach with a view to the lighthouse to the north.  The winds whipped the sand against my bare legs and wrapped in my big comfy sweater it felt more like an October morning than one in July!

Leaving the Manistee area I managed to find the back roads that I had previously worked out that lead me to Ludington State Park.  This park is right on the Lake Michigan Waters edges.  Sand dunes and more sand dunes as far as the eye can see.  You drive for quite a distance along the shore to get to the park and then again a long distance to the hiking trail and all you see are sand dunes and the occasional pathway to the beach.

Once I reached the parking lot I packed a picnic lunch and some water and headed on the trail.  It is a 2 mile hike one way.  About 1/3 of the way along the trail you can choose to go along the beach or continue through the "behind the dunes" pathway.   I decided to go along the beach.  

Now this was more of a challenge than expected!   With the winds and the high waves most of the time it was impossible to walk on the harder packed sand at waters edge…the waves were coming right up to the where the dunes started, often undercutting the drifts and leaving no place to walk except up the hill on the dune pathway.   

I use the term pathway lightly,  you can see where other people have left footprints would be a more accurate description. So I am walking along now in shifting sand and because of this I have to take smaller steps and each step I sink in and slide a bit.  

Finally I crested a mound and had my first glimpse of the lighthouse in the distance.  There she was, Big Sauble Point Lighthouse!   I decided to mark time by counting out 100 paces between pictures.  Now in the sand 2 small steps equals the size of one of my normal paces.   I was surprised at how often I reached 100 paces only to see the lighthouse still far far away on the horizon.

The smell of sun heated sand is in the air.  I inhale savoring the scent.  The wind dries out my nostrils as it howls past my ears.  I am in the midst of a vast expanse of sand hills and valleys.  I am thirsty but decline myself a sip from my water bottle until I get to the lighthouse.  

Even though I am only steps away from the waters of Lake Michigan, I imagine a trek across the desert where the sand shifts constantly under your feet and you slip and slide and have to exert yourself twice as hard just to make some headway.  Imagine seeing that goal on the horizon and struggling to get closer and each rest stop realizing that it hardly seems any closer.  This is my moment to gain awareness and understanding of some of the accomplishments of people who face these challenges everyday as they live by the edge of or even in a desert.  

I resist once more the urge to drink, promising myself water when I reach the lighthouse.

Finally though, I did reach the end of the journey through the dunes.   

I took a moment to reflect on the sound as I sat at the base of the lighthouse looking out over Lake Michigan.

First there is the constant crashing of the waves, and that is intense today after yesterday’s storm, but even more overwhelming is the howling of the wind.  It roars around your ears nonstop, a constant reminder of the power of nature.  I can imagine this sound becoming painful if it never ceases!   It becomes hard to think clearly as all your thoughts are drowned out by the constant rush of wind. 

After a drink of water and a rest I felt refreshed and ready to tackle the return 2 mile hike.  This time I chose the "behind the dunes" trail.   I think they call it the back dune.  Along the way I read the nature sign posts and tried to learn a little bit more about dune ecology.  I stopped to listen to the distant crash of the waves and the overriding howling of the wind. 

At one point walking through the shimmer of the sun reflecting off the sand I pondered what this walk would have felt like in the heat of a normal July day!   I was pleasantly warm but could easily imagine this being a sweaty walk under those circumstances.

Once back at the car I drove on to my next destination, Luddington itself.  Here I stopped briefly at Stearns Park to see the North Pier Lighthouse and another beach on Lake Michigan.   Then I stopped by Bob’s former residence to take some pictures for him (I will be meeting Bob in Chicago).  Finally I stopped at the ferry station where the ferry goes across Lake Michigan to Manitowoc, WI .

Leaving Luddington I stopped for one more view to the lake at Buttersville Park.  Here you can just make out the North Pier Lighthouse in the distance.

With the long walk to the Big Sauble Lighthouse I was a little behind my anticipated schedule so I decided stop and camp at Charles Mears State Park.  It was a pleasant 30 minute drive along winding back roads to get there.  I really pretty drive!

Luck must be with me today I got a camp site with a view to the lake!  I parked with the hatch set up to catch the view.  Then I set up camp and sat and read while enjoying the sunshine.  It was cool and I needed my sweater on the whole time.   

As I am reading a neighbor camper brings me a surprise dinner.  He says he belongs to the “Pay it forward club” and seeing I was camping alone and they had extras they brought me dinner.   It was a delicious chicken with mashed potatoes and green beans!   What a pleasant surprise and it sure will make my stay here have a unique memory!

In the evening as I watched the sun set I got caught up on some picture editing and then did some Sudoku puzzles.  I was hoping to see some stars but clouds and haze once more obscured night time visibility.  Instead I went to sleep with the constant sound of crashing waves audible and lulling me to a restful sleep.   Oh I forgot to mention, I had to get out the extra sleeping bag, that is how cool it was!

2014 – 07 – 28

Renate Dundys Marrello 

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