From Grants New Mexico
taking a side trip
via Hwy 53 to Ice Cave & Volcano Land and then on to El Morro National
Monument, Ramah, NM
Distance traveled: 44 miles byway trip
Today
I decided to do a side trip. My route 66
guide book suggested the “Ice Cave on Hwy 53 as a “Cooling off place” I decided that for me it would be a “change
of pace place.” I did my online
research (google maps are great) and discovered a route that I could follow
that would bring me back to the main trail via a big bow, arriving at
Sanders Arizona.
So
I set off, the road signs for the “Fire and Ice” were also present on I40 and
the exit for Hwy 53 was easy to spot and I was off the main thoroughfare.
I enjoy driving on the byways so much more
than interstate driving. These is a
calmness and a peacefulness about traveling just a little slower. Add to that that out here in the desert
things seem so wide open and free, a feeling of not being closed in by the
pressures of urban crowds. Now I know it
is just an illusion, for how free can you really be without a water supply, but
with a car that can get you back to “civilization” in a jiffy and emergency
water in the back, you can enjoy the illusion.
I
quickly realized that this route goes through a lot of National Parks land and
maybe that is part of what added to the feeling. The road was climbing higher and higher and I
know I am headed for a continental divide but as I am driving
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| colourful roadside vegetation |
I am starting to
see more and more trees. There are
patches of flowers everywhere and I am starting to understand that not all
deserts are barren sand. There are those
deserts that support plant life; it is just a different variety of plant life,
one that is adapted to the scarcity of water that this climate entails. I made my first few stops at the side of the
road just to enjoy this marvelous plant life.
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| Hummingbird Moth |
Then
I saw the information office for the El Malpais National Park visitor center and stopped there. Amazingly as I was walking in I saw what
looked like a hummingbird feeding on a low growing flower. I hope my picture turned out. A park ranger joined me enjoying the site and
told me it was called a “hummingbird moth” and it actually is a moth but it so
looks and acts like a hummingbird!
Amazing!
In
the office I got details for the "Fire and Ice" (which is privately owned and has
an entry fee) and they also told me about another site , El Morro, which is further along my route, that is worth stopping
at and where there is free rustic camping.
I made up my mind that this is what I was going to do. Take my time exploring both sites and then
set up camp and relax for the evening.
The
hikes at Fire and Ice (http://www.icecaves.com/) were beautiful. The first trail up to see the rim of the extinct Bandera Volcano, was all on cinder rock (left by
the volcano).
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| Looking into Bandera Volcano |
It last erupted 10,000
years ago and the
hike basically goes up the side of the cone to see the remains of the
core. (elevation 8,366 feet / 2,550 meters). I enjoyed all the views and the
markers along the way detailing what to look for and observe. At the top you look down into the cone, it is
like a huge bowl. What a fabulous site, I
enjoyed just standing there and enjoying the view.
On
the way back down I made sure to appreciate the scent of ponderosa pines in the
air, the subtle fragrance was so very refreshing in contrast to the dry dusty
scent of the cinders and find sand.
At
the picnic area I ate my lunch and enjoyed watching some hummingbirds at the feeders. Then I headed down the next trail to the ice
cave. Once again the marked stations
were very informative and helped me to understand the land forms and their
relationship to the volcanic action.
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| Green tinted ice in the cave |
The ice cave is a most amazing phenomenon. It never gets above 31F and all moisture that
gets into the cave becomes part of the ice.
The notes tell me that it is 20 feet thick and there is algae growing in
it which is why it is green. It is cool
down by the ices edge and as I stand there I wonder at all the marvels that
nature has to share with me.
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| continental divide |
Leaving
this site I make my way west once more on Hwy 53 until I come to the
continental divide sign. I take a moment
to take a picture. I cross the divide and read the sign that says that all the water now flows toward the Colorado River.
The
drive is very pretty and gradually the scenery changes. I start to see massive sandstone
buttes in the distance. One of these
turns out to be El Morro National Monument. (elevation 7,296ft / 2,224 meter)
I turned in and drove to the
information centre and got trail information about the Oasis, the carvings
and the trail to the top of the mesa and the ancient ruins of the native
peoples that is located on the top. It
is a 2 mile trail and the park rangers suggested to allow 1.5 to 2 hours for this hike. I pack my back pack with plenty of water and
head off.
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| Oasis at the base of the cliff |
The
first part of the trail leads to the oasis, a sizable pool of water sheltered
in a shaded corner of the limestone butte.
Looking up from the side to the water you see stone walls climbing up to
the sky. I felt enclosed by a semi
circle stone wall with life giving water at my feet.
From
there the trail markers lead to various inscriptions made by people over time,
from the petroglyphs of the native peoples, to the Spanish explores to the
surveyors looking for a possible train route through the area.
A most interesting walk and well worth the
time it takes to look for the inscriptions and to appreciate the people that
stood in this place over the course of time during their travels through this spot. Imagine, this oasis is in the middle of a desert, several days travel on foot or by horse,
miles and miles from the next source of water! What a relief these travelers must have felt arriving here.
The
next part of the trail winds with numerous switchbacks up the massive rock face
to the top of the mesa. Along the way I
stop for the amazing views and to catch my breath. I am feeling the effects of being at over
7000 foot elevation and the climb of just over 200 feet is taxing because the
air is just that much thinner.
Remembering to breathe deeply and to pause often I make my way to the
top.
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| chisel marks create a trail guide |
Here the trail is marked with
parallel double lines that have been chiseled into the sandstone like an outline of a sidewalk.
Occasionally there is a rock pile to let you
know that you are still on the trail.
The trail meanders along the top of the mesa. On the left is the drop back down to the flat
lands below and on the right is an unexpected canyon in the centre of this
majestic butte.
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| historic ruins |
The trail makes a huge
semi-circle around this edge with steps going up and down over the uneven
terrain. Finally I arrive at the
remains of the old community. As I
learnt at the last historic site, the peoples created homes that you entered
from the roof so there are no windows or doors, just rooms connected to one
another like a giant maze.
Leaving
the ruins behind I follow the trail down some switch back and stair back to the
information headquarters. I check the time,
it is 5:30. My timing is perfect, time
to go to the camp ground.
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| View from my camp site |
It
is a very small setting, with only 9 sites but I am only the 3rd camper
there. I was told that this camp spot
rarely if ever fills up. I wonder
why? It is gorgeous! I pick a site and park my car so that my
hatch will open to a view of an amazing butte in the distance, and go about the
business of setting up my camp site.
I
started talking with the campers in the next site over while getting
water. They told me that they have a
grand view of the sunset from their site and that I should join them for
that. So after dinner and working on my
picture editing I did just that.
We
enjoyed a marvelous sunset and then spent another hour just sitting around
their camp fire talking about our various travels. What a pleasant way to spend an evening. The almost full moon rose and shone brightly
in the darkening night sky, her light reflected off of the tiny white flowers in
the field creating a lovely glow.
Back
at my camp site, I settled in for the night with some reading and then looking
out the hatch at the butte illuminated by the moon’s glow, magical!
The evening got cool, the wind started blowing and breezing through
the car making my bug netting flap about and I was glad that I had securely
tied it down. And so with the sound of
the wind rustling the branches of the large gnarled cedars around my camp site
and the memory of the day’s hikes on my mind I drifted off to sleep.
Renate Dundys Marrello
