Adventures in Retirement: 2015 - 08 - 7th and 8th: Day 23 and Day 24 Scenic Destinations

From Buffalo Wyoming – Indian Camp Ground

To Petrified forest and back: 25 miles

To Kaycee Wyoming via crazy woman canyon: 74 miles

Through Barnum in search of the Outlaw cave and back to Kaycee : 47 miles

July 7th I took a rest day at Indian Camp Ground. Every so often you need a day to catch up on laundry, clean the car and camping gear and just relax.

July 8th I was ready to get back to my adventure. I awoke to the singing of birds and set about the task of taking down my tent and making breakfast. Then time to pack the car and when all the work is done, time for a shower and getting a fresh start on the day.

It was not even 8 AM when I pulled out of the Indian Camp Grounds and went in search of the Dry Creek Petrified Forest. (map #1)

Along the county road I spotted two deer in a pasture, I stopped and backed up and watched them and then noticed several more sitting in the tall grasses.

Also on the road I say a several signs of road kill, mostly rabbits but one deer also.

barely noticeable sign

I went past the entrance the first drive by as it is not really marked. I small sign on the gate post to a driveway that looks like it goes to someone’s ranch states that it is forbidden to take any petrified wood. It is not the kind of thing you notice while driving with you eye on the road.

The gravel driveway leads over bumpy roads to a small parking area with picnic area and toilet facilities. I saw another deer on the road in and then a rabbit scampering to hiding as I drove up to the parking area. Then I saw several more scampering about.

I changed into my hiking boots and followed a very nicely laid out trail with way stations explaining various facts along the way.

one of the more visible trail sections

Some parts of the trail were a bit overgrown and you had to look carefully to make sure you were still on the right path. I think a bit of trimming is in order.

However the scenery is exquisite and the petrified wood is, as always, a marvel to me.

After completing the trail I headed back into the town of Buffalo, where I got gas and then had a lunch and wifi break at McDonalds while it rained. When the rain stopped I went on with my journey, stopping first at the local IGA for a few tinned goods for my travel larder.

My next goal was the “crazy woman canyon”. I had instructions from the tourist centre in town which help me to find the turn off for the “crazy woman road”.

As I turn onto the road I am off the blacktop and onto a gravel road for the next 15 miles. Parts of it are more like a mud trail than a gravel road.

The one lane road is actually quite treacherous. There is a sign that say traffic going uphill has right of way and that downhill travel must yield. And of course, it decided to start to rain again. Just a light sprinkle but this combined with the muddy gravel road left me going very slow.

A steep path cuts into the mountain side down into a narrow canyon. The beauty of this place is breath-taking. Most of the time the road is decent and I can travel a careful 7-8 miles per hour. Then I hit some patches that are not really gravel but rather more rocks and mud holes and washouts. Here I slow down to 2 mph and navigate with great care. Fortunately these sections are short.

There is a lovely stop for a waterfall. I park right at the entrance because I see giant puddles on the circular turnabout and I walk to see the fall. I imagine how on a sunny day this would be an ideal picnic spot.

From that place forward the Crazy Woman River flows either on one side of the road or the other as several one lane bridges crisscross the river to accommodate the best lay of the land.

In many ways this one way road reminds me of the roads in Jamaica. I reminisce and remember the road we went on for our tour to the Blue Mountain Bicycle trip. Yes there are many similarities!

Near the bottom of the canyon the rock formations are amazing and a feast for the eyes is all around!

This is also where I meet the only other people on this stretch of the road. I yield to two oncoming cars and some other brave souls out to discover and enjoy the rugged beauty of this area.

Once I cross the National Forest line the road becomes decidedly better. Now it is more like a two lane country gravel road. I see the occasional home beside the Crazy Woman River.

Then I turn a corner and just like that I am out of the canyon and into open fields and pastures and ranch country. The contrast between the rocks and high walls and the wide open vistas is incredible.

It does not take long to arrive at Hwy 196 south to Kaycee. I stayed off of I25 by following alternate roads into town. I found the tourist information centre and it was closed. I went looking for a place to camp and drove into an RV camp ground. It looked more like a permanent trailer park. The kind owner however directed me to a place in town. I asked him about the “hole in the wall” campground near the “outlaw cave” and he said that he thought it still had spots, but that he had not been there in years. He told me that the beauty of the area is spectacular and that if this were in the east there would be thousands of people going to see the area.

So off went, I drove the 20+ miles to see the “outlaw cave”. Along highway 190 or Barnum Road the driving was easy.

This red coloured river seemed a harbinger of the red rocks to come.

Then I arrived at the red cliffs and the sign that said I had reached Barnum!

Barnum feels like a ghost town. There is an old country school. There is a junk yard filled with vintage cars. And there a sign that says “outlaw cave campgrounds”. But not campground to be found! I poke around a little bit decide they have gone out of business. The RV park owner was right. Back east this would be a booming little tourist resort.

I follow the directions which lead me onto the Little Fork Powder River Management Area road. I see the sign that says Hole in the Wall Ranch 4 miles and Outlaw cave 8 miles. At least I know I am on the right road.

I arrive at the Hole in the Wall Ranch. The road looks like it goes through the ranch!?! I feel almost like a trespasser. There are signs everywhere that you must not leave the road. Nowhere do I see any signs of the “hole in the wall camp ground”. There is no way I am going to drive up what looks like a driveway to ask questions. I am fearful of a gun toting landowner coming after me for passing onto his land.

I stay on the designated road. Once again the feeling is of driving through some rancher’s property. There are more signs warning against trespassing and private property and no entrance than there are road signs designating my destination. I really get the feeling that tourists are not welcome. Another deer scampers across the road just ahead of me and then I watch it leaping of through the long grasses of the meadow. I leaps over a barbed wire fence with grace and beauty.

A stray cow stands by the side of the road. I have not seen another vehicle in miles and miles.

Finally I see another Power River Management Area sign. “Fishing access #1 .7 miles / outlaw cave and campground 3 miles. Once again I am relieved to know I am still on the right road and not someone’s private property.

I arrive at fishing access #1 and look around. What looks like a ATV trail is apparently the road to the campground and the Outlaw Cave. They recommend high clearance vehicles 4 wheel drive, and I have this. But that is not a road to drive on! The ruts are so deep that it is clear people have been driving with one wheel on the grass edge and the other on the hump in the middle.

I am adventuresome - but no I think I am not going to be driving 3 miles in that kind of condition.
There is still a threat of rain in the dark cloudy skies and I can just imagine these dirt road becoming impassable mud after a down pour. That means that even if I get in to the camp ground I could become stranded there!
It has become clear to me that this is a sign yourself in camp ground and there is no one around for help if needed. So as much as I would love to continue, prudence dictates that I turn around. I am sad.

I console myself that the scenery to get here has been so awesome to make up in a small part for the loss of arriving at my desired destination. With just little better road conditions I would be once again camping in isolation like I did last year in Nevada, in the middle of nature with all her glories.

The return trip to Kaycee through the ranches and the red rocks of Barnum and then winding roads of Hwy 190 were accomplished without a hitch and I easily found the Powder River Campground were I registered and set up for the evening.

With electric power and internet service I felt back in civilization. The only drawback was that this had not been my plan. I still thought longingly of my rustic outback goal as I heated up a can of ravioli in tomato sauce for my dinner.

I chatted with Mel after dinner as I took a stroll along the roadway and back and caught up on his day on the golf course.

As the sun set in a cloudy sky I anticipated rain and so I made preparations accordingly before settling in for the night. As the darkness deepened I did some work getting my pictures downloaded and then some reading before camp lights out.

link to complete photo album

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