2015 - 07 - 06: Day 22 Scenic Destinations - hills and valleys

From Sheridan Wyoming

To Buffalo Wyoming – Indian Camp Ground

Distance Traveled: 37 miles

I awoke to rain and grey skies, so I made my way to the nearby McDonald’s, ordered breakfast and settled in for some computer work and catching up on my correspondence.

As the day progressed the skies cleared and there were patches of sunshine as I headed on the road.  Today’s drive is a short one as I had planned a rest day into my travel itinerary. 

historic Sheridan WY

I enjoyed the sights of historic Sheridan.

view from hwy 87 south of Sheridan WY

Today I followed highway 87 south to avoid the interstate. There is such pretty scenery here, rolling green hills with grey hints of mountains in the
distance. 

Roadside stop along Hwy 87 - view to the waterfall 

At a roadside rest area I had a marvelous view to the mountains far off in the west and a waterfall a short distance down into the valley.  

Visitor Information Buffalo WY

I arrived in Buffalo Wyoming in the late afternoon.  My first stop was finding the tourist information centre.  This was actually quite a challenge as the signage is almost obscured by trees and awnings.   


Here I got maps for the scenic drives I have on my list of things to do in this area.  I also got information about a camp grounds located right in the town. 

Then I enjoyed a walk about in the historic district and reminisced about the last time I visited here with my sister in 2009.

The Occidental Hotel remains unchanged.

Then it was time to find a camp site.  The first one I visited was the one I had scouted out on the internet and what attracted me to it was that you could see the mountains. However when I got there I discovered camp sites that were really barren, not a single tree in sight.  

Then I went to the one they recommended at the information centre and discovered a little gem.  What a beautiful facility!  Lots of trees for shade, clean restroom facilities, water and electricity on each site and even wifi service!   I decided to sign up for a for two night stay and enjoy a "day off".  I set up the tent on the lovely green grass lawn and settled in for a comfortable relaxing evening.

For the first time in ages I got to use my cooking gear and made myself a hot dinner. Yes even soup from a can is delicious when all you have had for a week is sandwiches and raw vegetables.   I truly enjoyed the opportunity to heat water, to make a cup of herbal tea. 

I spent the first part of the evening relaxing with some reading and doing Sudoku puzzles while watching the sun set behind the trees.  Then during the twilight, (better screen resolution with fewer reflections), I spent some computer time editing more photos.  I always end up way behind by the time an adventure ends, but every little bit I get done on the road is a bonus.

Renate Dundys Marrello 

link to the complete Photo Album

map of today's route

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2015 - 07 - 05: Day 21 Scenic Destinations - Pilgrimage to Medicine Wheel

From Horseshoe Bend camp ground in Big Horn Canyon National Park

To Sheridan Wyoming

Distance Traveled: 108 miles  

(about half of that in fog so dense I had to go 20mph or slower)

The wind woke me up, it was  blowing so hard I felt the car shaking.   I got out in the darkness before dawn,  scattered stars were twinkling overhead in the small patches of clear sky.  I tied down my mosquito tent even tighter, then crawled back inside to sleep a bit more.

As dawn approached, revealing shades of blue, grey and mauve.  I lay there wondering how to take down the tent impeded by the wild wind.  

Finally I decided to tackle the project trying to keep things more or less under control.  A neighbouring camper woman helped me and that was so appreciated.  I sort of just bundled up the nylon and net and put it away.  Nowhere near my usual systematic folding. 

After some “cooked pears” for breakfast I headed back on the road. My first destination was the getting to highway 14A to cross Big Horn Lake and go up into the mountains. 

The low lying causeway over the Big Horn Lake (created by Yellowtail Dam located near Fort Smith, Montana, built in 1965), was absolutely amazing to drive across!  

No less spectacular now that I drove across it for the second time.  Today the waves were quite choppy due to the winds and I can well imagine the waves flowing over the road in really rough weather.  I was the only car on the road for miles and miles and miles. 

The steep climb up into the Big Horn Mountains is breathtaking. 

Sometimes the road passing between sheer cliffs and at other times dropping off steeply into stunning views to the valley below.

It passes through open ranges and I even encountered cattle on the road.

Today as I drove higher and higher up the mountain slopes I noticed a dramatic temperature drop.  When I stopped for the scenic overlook into Big Horn Valley it was only 12C!

The last short stretch of my drive to the Medicine Wheel was accompanied with a growing fog cover. The parking lot is at elevation 9668 feet. 
By the time I got to the information station visibility was less than 20 feet.  I changed clothes for the cooler temperatures and settled in to wait hoping that the warming sun would cut through some of the fog. I was in luck – by noon visibility opened up after getting my rain gear out I started out for 

my trek up the mountain to the Medicine Wheel.  There was a spitting mist in the air.  Is it rain, or just the fog dripping as it dissipates?  The clouds reached down to touch the top of the mountain and wisps of fog clung to the trees in the distance. 

I found my returning visit to the Medicine Wheel just as spiritual an experience as the first time around.  Maybe even more so because I had prepared prayers for the 6 directions and the power of communicating with nature and primal forces was deeply moving. 

I attached my ribbons to the 4 compass directions and in this manner left my mark here at the wheel. 

It would be an understatement to say that the experience was an emotional one. 

more information on the Medicine Wheel 

As I walked back down the mountain I contemplated my journey in the past 6 years since my first visit.  From an empty nester, to a woman facing the spiritual growth of self-awareness and pondering my place and purpose as I face the next stage in my life, I have been on quite the journey of transformation.  I wonder where will I be 6 years from now and if there is another visit to the Medicine Wheel in my future to ponder once again the changes and transformations.

As I got back into the car the fog descended even more deeply than before.  I had fortunately been given the only opening to visit the wheel. 

Driving down the mountain toward Sheridan was a challenge!  Visibility was less than 20 feet for the longest stretch.  Driving with 4-way flashers, peering intently through the dense fog was exhausting.  I stopped in a scenic turn out – not for the view (which was of thick white mist) but to rest from the tension of hyper-alert driving.

a momentary clear patch 

Rested, I once again continued.  Now occasionally there was a clear patch and these pockets were a relief.  But most of the time it was a matter of slowly picking my way through fog so thick I, who am normally fearless, was faced with concerns.  I just wanted to get down into the valley safely. 

Through the winding hairpin turns there were four of us inching our way along in single file.  Finally we were below the fog line!  Of what a relief to be able to see!

I drove into Sheridan and settled in at McDonald's for dinner and to use internet access to catch up on my messages and emails. 

I found a camping site and settled in for some reading and Sudoku and as the drizzle rain continued through the night I had to keep my windows mostly closed, just a crack for air.  Luckily the temperature was not too warm.  

Renate Dundys Marrello 

Link to the complete photo album 

today's route map 

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2015 – 07 – 04: Day 20 Scenic Destinations - Big Horn Canyon

From Lovell Wyoming

To Big Horn Canyon National Park

Distance Traveled: 14 miles / plus the scenic trail round trip to Big Horn Lake 32 miles.

I enjoyed my morning coffee from the hotel office while doing some catching work on my photos and notes about my journey.  

on the road into Big Horn Recreation Area

Then after packing it was off to Big Horn National Recreation Area.  It was only a very short drive to the park office which is just down the road in Lovell.  From there the road into the park camp grounds is only 14 scenic miles.

View to the red mountains from my camp site 

I picked out and paid for my camp site which has a gorgeous view of the rust red mountains.

My view at lunch was overlooking Yellowstone Lake and I even had time to do some sketching while waiting for the boat cruise through the canyon to commence.

on the canyon boat cruise 

Boat cruise on Yellowstone Lake:

So much beauty all around in every direction is it hard to know where to look first.  The captain was also the tour guide and it was a very entertaining trip.  At one point in time we did see some mountain goats in the cliffs above our heads but they were pretty far away and I was not able to get any photos.  The breeze on the water kept us cool even though it is really is a scorching hot day. 

Back at the car I was reminded what a hot day it was.  I was to hot (40 C) That my left over cup of coffee in the car was still hot. The heat also cooked my pears!  that means backed pears for dinner! 

Then I spent the rest of the afternoon on the scenic trail into the interior of the park which meanders northward, crossing the state line back into Montana!

Ewing Lovell historic ranch 

One of my stops was to visit an historic ranch.  The view from the porch out across the wide open spaces to the mountains was breathtaking. I would be quite content to wake up to that every day! 

Backing down the boat ramp 

My next stop was at the boat launch and camp grounds at Big Horn Lake located at the north end of the scenic park road. I had lots of fun watching a car with boat trailer backing down the steep curving boat ramp.

Two Eagles Interpretive trail

On the return trip south I stopped for a hike at a native historical site and followed the two eagles interpretive trail which I found fascinating.  

I saw some wild horses way off in the distance, too far off to make out in any of the pictures that I took.

View from the trail head at Sullivan's Knob 

My next stop was at Sullivan's Knob where I wanted to hike the the rim of the canyon where it is said there is a triple echo. However, even though I could see the trail head sign, I could not spot the trail.  I think this one is not hiked much and a rocky trail with very little vegetation is hard to differentiate from the surrounding landscape.  I was the only car in the parking lot and so prudence won over adventure.  Not a good idea to get lost on a 1 mile trail into the desert in 40C weather. 

My next destination was Devils canyon.  On the road into the parking area I spotted some Big Horn sheep at the side of the road.  It was fun just to sit in the car watching them grazing on the sparse vegetation.  

View from Devil's Canyon Overlook 

From the Devil's Canyon overlook there was an awesome view to the cliffs on either side and the water of the river below.  It is so easy to get lost in the vast distances spread before your eyes and feel dwarfed in size when standing at the edge looking down upon the tiny boat below. 

I had a lovely chat with some young migrant workers up here for harvesting work from Texas.   They were very nice young people.

Stunning red rock landscape 

The final stretch of my drive crossed the state line back into Wyoming and back to the campground.  I was fascinated by the red rocks of the mountain range here and took great pleasure in just enjoying the view.

Even though it was by now early evening and there was a breeze it was still too hot to set up camp fully exposed to the sun and sitting exposed on gravel.  So I found a shady place to sit and read by the beach on Yellowstone lake.  

Gradually as the sun started to get lower and lower in the sky I feel the air  getting cooler and I headed back to my camp site and set up for the night. 

Progressively as the sun set it got more and more windy!!! As I watched this amazing orange and mauve sunset I worked at really tying down my mosquito tent securely.  It was still flapping strongly in the wind and the resulting noise kept me awake for the longest time 

Finally the wind settled and I slept soundly with the cooling breeze whispering and keeping me company. 

Renate Dundys Marrello 

Link to the complete photo album

Map of route from Lovell to Horseshoe Bend Campgrounds 

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2015 – 07 – 03: Day 19 Scenic Destinations - Following the Yellowstone River

From Miles City Montana

To Lovell Wyoming

Distance Traveled: 270 miles 

I spent the early part of the morning working on notes and pictures at McDonald's before heading to Walmart for wiper fluid and a new car power converted since my old one literally fell apart in my hands. 

Historic Miles City 

After driving through the old part of Miles City admiring the old architecture, I stopped at the 

Range Riders Museum to enjoy a journey into the past, looking at memorabilia 
from a bygone era.

Yellowstone River seen from Water Plant Park Miles City 

Then I did a slight detour at the edge of the town to Water Plant Park to see the Yellowstone River. Standing by the banks of the river I felt dwarfed by its majestic breadth. 







Then I continued on I-94 south west along the Yellowstone River Valley observing the gradual transition from plains to mountain terrain.  The wide open vistas now are stating to feel normal and the sky seems reach down to touch the land in the far distance. 

Rest stop picnic shelter with view of the Yellowstone River 

There was this lovely rest area stop along the interstate with a lovely overview from the cliff top, to the Yellowstone River and valley.  From a shaded picnic shelter, what a is majestic and panoramic view to accompany my lunch!  

My next stop was in the town Forsyth, where I found the East Roseboro fishing access site with another lovely view to the Yellowstone River.






On the road south I took the exit for Little Bighorn Battlefield Historic site.

Once on the road I finally spotted a sign that indicate it was 40 miles away and so not really on this trip's itinerary.
However this little detour allowed me to see some really lovely farmlands and delightful relics of another time. 

Driving south on I-94 there are the occasional glimpses of the Yellowstone River in the distance.

Pompeys Pillar 

Continuing south I spotted the sign for Pompeys Pillar National Monument. 

View to the Yellowstone River from Pompey's Pillar 

This is located along the Yellowstone river and offers a vantage point view to the river that is virtually unchanged since Clark stood here during the Lewis and Clark expedition.  

Clark's signature in the sandstone 

A short hike brought me to the place where Clark's signature is engraved in the sandstone and preserved now behind glass 

At the base of this landmark there is now a lovely park setting with closer views to this mighty river.  

Yellowstone river just south of Laurel MO 

I only stopped in Billings Montana long enough to get gas at Sam’s and then drove on to Laurel where I took highway 212 south. Leaving the town, I crossed the Yellowstone River and soon was going through a construction zone that lasted almost to the junction of highway 310

Along hwy 310 south toward Lovell WY there were numerous picturesque small towns and then the state border crossing into Wyoming.  There were now hills and low mountains all around and I stated climbing, watching the elevations slowly creep up to over 3000 feet

Lovell itself is a quaint small town, however there were very few options for accommodations.  I got the last room at the Horseshoe Bend Motel  and for my money I got a quaint and characterful place to stay.  It sure was wonderful to have a shower after several nights of primitive camping.

Renate Dundys Marrello 

Link to see more photos

Today's Route (blue) from Miles City MO to Horseshoe Bend Motel in Lovell WY

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