From Buffalo Wyoming – Indian Camp Ground
To Petrified forest and back: 25 miles
To Kaycee Wyoming via crazy woman canyon: 74 miles
Through Barnum in search of the Outlaw cave and back to
Kaycee : 47 miles
July 7th I took a rest day at Indian Camp Ground. Every so often you need a day to catch up on laundry, clean the car and camping gear and just relax.
July 8th I was ready to get back to my adventure. I awoke to the singing of birds and set about the task of
taking down my tent and making breakfast.
Then time to pack the car and when all the work is done, time for a
shower and getting a fresh start on the day.
It was not even 8 AM when I pulled out of the Indian Camp Grounds and went in search of the Dry Creek Petrified Forest. (map #1)
Along the county road I spotted two deer in a
pasture, I stopped and backed up and watched them and then noticed several more
sitting in the tall grasses.
Also on the road I say a several signs of road kill,
mostly rabbits but one deer also.
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| barely noticeable sign |
I went past the entrance the first drive by as it is not
really marked. I small sign on the gate
post to a driveway that looks like it goes to someone’s ranch states that it is
forbidden to take any petrified wood.
It is not the kind of thing you notice while driving with you eye on the
road.
The gravel driveway leads over bumpy roads to a small
parking area with picnic area and toilet facilities. I saw another deer on the road in and then a
rabbit scampering to hiding as I drove up to the parking area. Then I saw several more scampering about.
I changed into my hiking boots and followed a very nicely
laid out trail with way stations explaining various facts along the way.
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| one of the more visible trail sections |
Some parts of the trail were a bit overgrown
and you had to look carefully to make sure you were still on the right
path. I think a bit of trimming is in
order.
However the scenery is exquisite
and the petrified wood is, as always, a marvel to me.
After completing the trail I headed back into the town of
Buffalo, where I got gas and then had a lunch and wifi break at McDonalds while it rained. When the rain stopped I went on with my
journey, stopping first at the local IGA for a few tinned goods for my travel
larder.
My next goal was the “crazy woman canyon”. I had instructions from the tourist centre in town which help me to find the turn off for the “crazy woman road”.
As I turn onto the road I am off the blacktop and onto a gravel road
for the next 15 miles. Parts of it are more like a mud trail than a gravel road.
The one lane road is actually quite treacherous. There is a sign that say traffic going uphill
has right of way and that downhill travel must yield. And of course, it decided to start to rain
again. Just a light sprinkle but this
combined with the muddy gravel road left me going very slow.
A steep path cuts into the mountain side down
into a narrow canyon. The beauty of this
place is breath-taking. Most of the time
the road is decent and I can travel a careful 7-8 miles per hour. Then I hit some patches that are not really
gravel but rather more rocks and mud holes and washouts. Here I slow down to 2 mph and navigate with
great care. Fortunately these sections
are short.
There is a lovely stop for a waterfall. I park right at the entrance because I see
giant puddles on the circular turnabout and I walk to see the fall. I imagine how on a sunny day this would be an
ideal picnic spot.
From that place forward the Crazy Woman River flows
either on one side of the road or the other as several one lane bridges
crisscross the river to accommodate the best lay of the land.
In many ways this one way road reminds me of
the roads in Jamaica. I reminisce and
remember the road we went on for our tour to the Blue Mountain Bicycle
trip. Yes there are many similarities!
Near the bottom of the canyon the rock formations are
amazing and a feast for the eyes is all around!
This is also where I meet the only other people on this stretch of the
road. I yield to two oncoming cars and
some other brave souls out to discover and enjoy the rugged beauty of this
area.
Once I cross the National Forest line the road becomes decidedly better. Now it is more like a two lane country gravel road. I see the occasional home beside the Crazy Woman River.
Then I turn a corner and just like that I am out of the canyon and into
open fields and pastures and ranch country. The contrast between the rocks and
high walls and the wide open vistas is incredible.
It does not take long to arrive at Hwy 196 south to Kaycee. I stayed off of I25 by following alternate roads into town. I found the tourist information centre and it was closed. I went looking for a place to camp and drove into an RV camp ground. It looked more like a permanent trailer park. The kind owner however directed me to a place in town. I asked him about the “hole in the wall” campground near the “outlaw cave” and he said that he thought it still had spots, but that he had not been there in years. He told me that the beauty of the area is spectacular and that if this were in the east there would be thousands of people going to see the area.
So off went, I drove the 20+ miles to see the “outlaw cave”. Along highway 190 or Barnum Road the driving was easy.
This red coloured river seemed a harbinger of the red rocks to come.
Then I arrived at the red cliffs and the sign that said I had reached Barnum!
Barnum feels like a ghost town. There is an old country school. There is a junk yard filled with vintage
cars. And there a sign that says “outlaw
cave campgrounds”. But not campground to
be found! I poke around a little bit
decide they have gone out of business.
The RV park owner was right. Back
east this would be a booming little tourist resort.
I follow the directions which lead me onto the Little
Fork Powder River Management Area road.
I see the sign that says Hole in the Wall Ranch 4 miles and Outlaw cave
8 miles. At least I know I am on the
right road.
I arrive at the Hole in the
Wall Ranch. The road looks like it goes
through the ranch!?! I feel almost like
a trespasser. There are signs everywhere
that you must not leave the road.
Nowhere do I see any signs of the “hole in the wall camp ground”. There is no way I am going to drive up what
looks like a driveway to ask questions.
I am fearful of a gun toting landowner coming after me for passing onto
his land.
I stay on the designated road. Once again the feeling is of driving through
some rancher’s property. There are more
signs warning against trespassing and private property and no entrance than
there are road signs designating my destination. I really get the feeling that tourists are not
welcome. Another deer scampers across
the road just ahead of me and then I watch it leaping of through the long
grasses of the meadow. I leaps over a
barbed wire fence with grace and beauty.
A stray cow stands by the side of the road. I have not seen another vehicle in miles and miles.
Finally I see another Power River Management Area
sign. “Fishing access #1 .7 miles / outlaw cave and campground 3
miles. Once again I am relieved to know
I am still on the right road and not someone’s private property.
I arrive at fishing access #1 and look around. What looks like a ATV trail is apparently the
road to the campground and the Outlaw Cave.
They recommend high clearance vehicles 4 wheel drive, and I have
this. But that is not a road to drive
on! The ruts are so deep that it is
clear people have been driving with one wheel on the grass edge and the other
on the hump in the middle.
I am
adventuresome - but no I think I am not going to be driving 3 miles in that
kind of condition.
There is still a threat of rain in the dark cloudy skies and I can just imagine these dirt road becoming impassable mud after a down pour. That means that even if I get in to the camp ground I could become stranded there!
It has become clear
to me that this is a sign yourself in camp ground and there is no one around
for help if needed. So as much as I would love to continue, prudence dictates
that I turn around. I am sad.
I console myself that the scenery to get here has been so
awesome to make up in a small part for the loss of arriving at my desired
destination. With just little better road conditions I would be once again
camping in isolation like I did last year in Nevada, in the middle of nature
with all her glories.
The return trip to Kaycee through the ranches and the red
rocks of Barnum and then winding roads of Hwy 190 were accomplished without a
hitch and I easily found the Powder River Campground were I registered and set
up for the evening.
With electric power and internet service I felt back in
civilization. The only drawback was that
this had not been my plan. I still
thought longingly of my rustic outback goal as I heated up a can of ravioli in
tomato sauce for my dinner.
I chatted with Mel after dinner as I took a stroll along
the roadway and back and caught up on his day on the golf course.
As the sun set in a cloudy sky I anticipated rain and so
I made preparations accordingly before settling in for the night. As the darkness deepened I did some work getting my
pictures downloaded and then some reading before camp lights out.
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| map #1 |
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| Map #2 |
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| Map #3 |
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